old famous jalebi wala chandni chowk

As the weather turns, our heads and thoughts turn to parts of the city that remain unthinkable as destiantions for a good part of the year. So, let’s look at a few places to eat and monuments that you check out while the good weather lasts and I would get to finish a few pending posts thereby too. First of all, the Old and Famous Jalebi wala in Chandni Chowk. That’s the name of the shop, not what a blogger described them as. I instinctively…Continue Reading “Old Famous Jalebi Wala, Chandni Chowk”

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al jawahar chicken kali mirch

What do you expect when you order a chicken kali mirch? Something biting and spicy, no? What if it is mild, borderline sweet and the pepper is only a gentle, mischievous hint? This dish at Al Jawahar is one of my most favourite chicken dishes ever. It has tender meat, white gravy and none of the generic arrogance of a butter chicken. This dish is like that star performer who silently goes back to crease after scoring a century.

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You must have seen the push carts in Jama Masjid area selling fruit chaat. The fruits have remained the same for a very long time – papaya, watermelon, pineapple, guava. This time, we spotted a cart selling Kiwi. Priced at the same 10 bucks per plate, the seller was doing brisk business. The boy peeled, sliced and heaped a mountain of that old chat masala in under a minute. We returned the one with masala and asked for a plain one. Sour as hell, these…Continue Reading “Kiwi in Chandni Chowk”

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pyau in old delhi

Bottled water may seem like a new idea, but it has been around for nearly 400 years. It is only more prevalent today. So, what did people do in old days when they became thirsty in the middle of the road and didn’t want to spend a nickel? At least in Old Delhi, they went to a pyau. They were opened by generous private individuals, were free and were, generally, operated from a window in the house. There was a depression in the ground to…Continue Reading “Pyau in Old Delhi”

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You see naan khatai carts at every turn in Old Delhi. Most of them are not worth a stop. But on a morning walk, we came across this particular guy at Dariba who demands a mention. While all of us pointed our cameras at this and that, someone stopped at this cart and moaned a little too loudly. The whole group descended on the nameless guy. The khatais were freshly baked under coal, thick, crumbling and so good that many bought extra for home.

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Old Delhi is filled with innumerable little gems. Probably why, no matter how much you want, as a food writer you can’t escape this part of the city. Now, Durga Sweets Corner is such outlet. It has all the qualities one looks for in a classic food outlet: age, quality and character. The outlet is actually two. Two stores on opposite sides of the road in Suiwallan, in Old Delhi. Literally, Suiwallan means the needle maker. The market, today, is choc-a-bloc with clothes stores and…Continue Reading “Durga Sweets Corner, Daryaganj, Old Delhi”

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Much has been written about Kabootarbazi. And, that is an utterly idiotic thing to do. Kabootarbazi of Chandni Chowk should be seen, standing from the top of a five storeyed building, against the background of Jama Masjid. Anything else is a shamless counterfeit. But, given that you were not there, here is an improvisation. The following video was made on 26th January. The D day for Kabootarbazi, same as 15th August is the day for patangbazi. Getting to see it live is not an easy…Continue Reading “Kabootarbazi seen up close in Jama Masjid area, Old Delhi”

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When I wrote about Moti Mahal, I knew there is just one other restaurant in Delhi that could exceed it in fame, fan following and legend. There is no foodie in Delhi who has not been there, taken photos to prove his credibility or written about it. The restaurant is an icon and I have been going there since the days I used to be a vegetarian. Yes, that is the amount of craze that the place has. Two vegetarians can make the hard trip,…Continue Reading “Karim’s Hotel – Jama Masjid”

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If you travel to a place which is less than 30 minutes from your home and write about it afterward, will that be called a travelogue? No idea. I went to Old Delhi on a photography trip for my wife’s doctoral thesis. We had the cheapest Sony Cybershot point and shoot camera and I am as good a photographer as the rickshaw puller who took us around. So, here it goes: This is Turkman Gate, the southern entrance to Old Delhi. Being on the other…Continue Reading “Old Delhi – Chronicles of a near-resident”

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